There is a significant paradox in France: the Chinese fashion platform Shein currently has 25 million active users in the country (approximately 36% of France’s total population), making it one of Shein’s main markets in Europe alongside the United States, Germany, and the United Kingdom. However, the French government wants no involvement with the company or its products. In the past five months, Shein has been required to pay more than €190 million in fines for misleading business practices and violations of user privacy.
This is compounded by the recent controversy regarding the sale of sex dolls with childlike features, which has raised alarms among organizations protecting children’s rights. Additionally, French authorities have repeatedly questioned the damage that the fast fashion industry is causing to local businesses and the environment.
Despite all this, Shein has decided to open its first physical store in Europe in the very heart of Paris, occupying the sixth floor of the iconic BHV Marais, one of the most emblematic buildings in France. The opening event was marked by a striking contrast of opinions about the brand: on one hand, there was a long queue of people—some waiting since 6:00 a.m.—anticipating the store’s opening; on the other, dozens of protesters gathered outside the building to denounce Shein and everything it represents.
Facade of the building where Shein opened its first store in Paris. Source: Modaes
Just hours after the inauguration, the French Government ordered the temporary suspension of Shein’s digital platform. This measure, driven by Prime Minister Sébastien Lecornu, was a direct reaction to the controversy generated by the sale of illicit products such as sex dolls with childlike appearances and bladed weapons.
The controversial dolls.
Lecornu did not mince words and described Shein’s operation as a threat to republican values. Meanwhile, Minister of Industry Sébastien Martin denounced “an aggressive strategy that undermines our values”, while Yann Rivoallan, president of the Fédération du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin, was even more critical: “Shein has already lost. Its strategy was to use the crowd effect to silence controversy and pretend to represent the French, but reality is different.”
In response to mounting pressure, Shein announced the temporary suspension of third-party product sales on its French platform, ensuring that it will review “compliance with national regulations” to guarantee “the highest standards of consumer protection.”
While a red carpet was being prepared for the Chinese retailer inside the BHV, outside the store, activists, environmental associations, and child rights organizations protested chanting “Shein, non merci”, with banners demanding protection for children, not support for ultra-fast fashion. Some demonstrators even displayed flags from the Chinese region of Xinjiang, protesting the alleged use of forced labor.
Across the street, the line of shoppers remained resolute. Young people, teenagers, and middle-aged women had waited since early morning, some out of curiosity and others wishing to take advantage of the gifts promised by BHV. “Shein is more affordable,” some repeated. However, other customers clarified: “It is not cheaper than H&M or Zara,” and indicated that they primarily came for the promotions rather than out of brand loyalty.
An Ipsos survey cited by the Fédération du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin reveals that 70% of the French population supports taking action against Shein. Nevertheless, the fact that there are 25 million active users in the country demonstrates that the French relationship with the brand is far from straightforward.
With more than 1,000 m² and 6,000 items spanning women’s, men’s, children’s, sportswear, and accessories, Shein has brought its full fashion arsenal to the sixth floor of BHV Marais. According to the store staff, the pieces were “carefully selected” from among the millions of products offered on the online platform.
Interior of the new Shein store in Paris. Source: Modaes
Pricing remains one of the strongest attractions, with garments starting at €15 and coats up to €100. However, it should be noted that there are no two-euro t-shirts as seen on the website. “We do not sell Shein t-shirts for two euros here,” stated Frédéric Mérlin, president of the Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), owner of BHV. According to him, physical retail operates under different conditions and cannot offer the same discounts as the digital channel.
Furthermore, for the opening day only, the department store offered a significant incentive: for every purchase made, customers received a gift voucher for the same amount spent. In other words, if you made a purchase for €30, you would receive another €30 in voucher form—a strategy that further fueled the already long lines from the early morning.
Adding another layer of controversy, the agreement between Shein and BHV has led to Galeries Lafayette severing ties with La Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), resulting in the termination of their partnership for seven shopping centers in the country.
Photo: Shein.
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